tis me again im sick of this . finaly managed to get some air roun the tyres today , first time out on the goldwing trike and what a disapointment 7000 revs in overdrive and i am doing 65 miles per hour. i can pull away in fourth gear
the back diff is off a rascal and i think it is 5:1 ratio which is usless. has anyone got a solution thats not going to cost the earth. i am a very disapointed triker birdy

hi ke try sorcing a siera diff have seen a few fitted to bike trikes and an addvatage is they have disc brakes and are indipendent suspention

Bigger wheels / taller tyres?

How fast is the standard bike at gear and rpm?

What tyres are you currently on?

Cheapest solution, as Manfred suggests is bigger wheels and tyres (larger Circumference) wheels being the easiest too, tho' it will make some, but not too much difference. I seen posted before that Suzuki/Bedford Rascals have problems with ratio's, the Sierra diff and IRS setup is good when done right but expensive unless you do the work yourself?

There are bolt on IRS rear ends, yet again expensive.

Proberbly the easiest option is the good ol reliant rear axle, this may be narrowed to match the existing axle width, the brakes lines and handbrake set up are pretty simple and may swap over easily. Dont forget to check wheel rotaion as you may have to turn the axle over so you forward rather than backwards quickly

Unless you try the 1st option, you'll have some fabrication to consider. Good luck regardless, Ian

As for axle rotation, (correct me if I am wrong) but if the shaft on your bike is on the left then you would usually have to flip a Reliant axle upside down - plug hole on top and put a new one in the new top side, if the shaft is on the right (usually a BMW I think) then the rotation is the same as a car meaning the axle stays the right way up.
Easiest way is to check the rotation of said axle before dismantling and then turn your joint on the diff to see with way the wheels will turn.
As for your original question, yeah you can try bigger wheels and tyres but bare in mind that the rear maybe higher than originally as a bike which can effect oil levels in the engine and also the rake of the front forks.

Wow, that gives me a few options, on looking at the rear end it looks like the reliant diff is going to be the best opption due to the way ist been bodged together . just my luck, the weather turns and i am grounded . many thanks to webbo, manfred,ianoldkwak and bobYT for your much apreciated input . birdy

I can't say for sure weather the reliant axle has the right ratio for the Goldwing though.

hi bob, i am told that i need a ratio of 3.5:1

Lost all my files when my pc crashed but found you this.
Reliant regal (side and OHV, 600, 700 and 750 sidevalve)

These axles have a posted ratio of 8x35 which equates to 4.375/1 The interesting thing with these is they have a 3 piece diff casing and a bolted on crownwheel and they are by far the easiest axle to convert to chain drive.

Reliant Robin 750cc and Kitten van..........Axle ratio = 3.545/1

Reliant Robin 850cc, Kitten and most Rialto's........... Axle ratio = 3.23/1

Reliant Rialto 2..............Axle ratio = 2.78/1 The Rialto 2 was a different animal to the others and only had a short production run in the early 1980's. Mostly on 'B' and 'C' registrations, these cars were fitted with higher compression engines that Reliant designated the 'Economy' engine and enthusiasts dubbed the 'yellowtop' due to the colour of the rocker box. Any genuine Rialto 2 engine can be identified by the letter 'E' stamped at the end of the engine number. The axle ratio differed from the other models and the diffs can sometimes be identified by the letter 'B' stamped on the diff casing.

or you could go the whole hog and fit a volvo axle like mine, disc brakes, high ratio, and bulletproof...

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